If you’re looking at a Kawasaki KLR 650, you’re on the right track. It’s a bike built for adventure—simple, tough, and ready for anything. But like every long-running model, there are a few rough patches in its history. That’s why it’s smart to know which KLR 650 years to avoid before you buy.

I’m going to walk you through it like we’re chatting over coffee. No complicated jargon, just real talk based on years of experience riding and wrenching on these bikes.

And don’t worry—even the “bad” years aren’t disasters. With good care, a KLR can go for a long, long time. But if you can start with a better year, why not?

Why the KLR 650 Is So Popular

The KLR 650 has been winning riders over since 1987. It’s not fancy. It’s not fast. But it’s about as reliable as an old pickup truck. Plus, it can do a little bit of everything—street riding, dirt roads, long trips—you name it.

The bike has gone through three main generations:

First Generation (1987–2007): The original workhorse.
Second Generation (2008–2018): Updated styling, a bit more comfort.
Third Generation (2022–Present): Fuel injection and modern features at last.

Each generation has its own feel. Some riders love the old-school charm of Gen 1. Others want the small upgrades from Gen 2. And Gen 3 brings the KLR into the modern world.

But not every year is perfect, and that’s what we’re here to talk about.

A Quick Word on Generations

Before we dive into the problem years, here’s a quick tip: knowing the generation makes shopping way easier.

Gen 1 (1987–2007): Raw, simple, cheap to fix. But a little rough around the edges.
Gen 2 (2008–2018): Smoother, slightly more refined. Still very much a KLR.
Gen 3 (2022–Now): Finally got fuel injection, ABS, and better electronics.

We’ll get into which years to watch out for next. But remember—maintenance matters even more than the model year. A well-loved KLR can outlive anything else on the road.

KLR 650 Years to Avoid (And What to Watch For)

Now let’s dive into the real reason you’re here — figuring out which KLR 650 years to avoid.

2008 KLR 650: The Famous “Oil Burner”

The 2008 KLR 650 kicked off the second generation. Kawasaki gave it a sharper look and added a few upgrades. On paper, it sounded awesome.

But here’s the catch — a lot of 2008 models burned oil. And not just a little. Some bikes would drink up a quart of oil every 1,000 miles or less. If you didn’t keep a close eye on the oil level, you could ruin the engine without even realizing it.

Why did this happen?
Most people believe it came down to loose engine tolerances and piston rings that didn’t seal well. Either way, it wasn’t something you could easily fix without rebuilding the engine.

To be fair, not every 2008 KLR had this problem. Some owners got lucky. But unless you know the bike’s history and it’s been taken care of (or already rebuilt), 2008 is a risky year to buy.

2009 and 2010 KLR 650: Better, But Still Not Perfect

Kawasaki tried to fix things after 2008. And while the 2009 and 2010 models were better, they weren’t perfect.

Some riders still reported oil-burning issues, though it wasn’t as common as in 2008. If you’re looking at a 2009 or 2010 KLR, it’s smart to ask the owner if the bike uses oil between oil changes. If they say “a little,” make sure you dig deeper. Sometimes “a little” turns into topping up oil every few hundred miles.

What About the 2022 KLR 650?

The 2022 model was a big deal — Kawasaki finally added fuel injection, updated the dash, and gave riders a choice between ABS and non-ABS models. It looked like the perfect adventure upgrade.

But like with any first-year release, there were some early kinks:

Some riders noticed small electrical gremlins.
Others found the fuel mapping a little rough, especially at low speeds.
A few said the bike felt heavier and more sluggish compared to older KLRs.

Are these huge problems? Honestly, no. The 2022 KLR 650 is still a solid bike. But if you’re super picky, you might want to grab a 2023 or 2024 model where Kawasaki had time to iron things out.

Quick List: KLR 650 Years to Be Cautious About

Here’s a simple breakdown:

2008: High risk of oil burning — most important year to watch out for.
2009–2010: Better than 2008, but still some risk.
2022: Minor first-year quirks, nothing major but good to be aware of.

At the end of the day, every KLR generation has its fans. But if you want to avoid big surprises, keeping these years in mind will definitely help.

Understanding KLR 650 Generations: What Changed Over the Years

Before we dive deeper, let’s take a quick look at the different generations of the KLR 650.
It’ll make it easier to see why some years are better to avoid than others.

First Generation (1987–2007)

The first KLR 650 hit the roads in 1987 and stayed almost the same until 2007.
It was a basic, tough bike — no fancy electronics, just pure adventure spirit.

People loved it because it was simple. If something broke, you could fix it with a few tools on the side of the road.

What was good:

Super reliable if you kept up on maintenance
Lightweight compared to later models
Tons of aftermarket parts available

What wasn’t so good:

Weak front brakes
Soft suspension that bottomed out easily
The famous “doohickey” problem (don’t worry, I’ll explain that later)

Even today, you’ll find first-gen KLRs still out there racking up crazy miles.

Second Generation (2008–2018)

In 2008, Kawasaki gave the KLR a full refresh. It looked sharper and was a bit more comfortable, especially for longer trips.

But like I mentioned earlier, 2008 and 2009 models had that annoying oil-burning issue.

What got better:

Much better wind protection
Stronger subframe for carrying gear
A more comfortable seat for highway rides

What still needed work:

Gained some extra weight
Early models had engine troubles
Still used a carburetor (cold starts weren’t fun)

If you’re thinking about a second-gen bike, models from 2011 and up are usually the safer choice.

Third Generation (2022–Today)

After a short break, the KLR came roaring back in 2022 — with fuel injection this time!

Kawasaki added a few upgrades:

Electronic fuel injection (no more choke battles!)
Optional ABS
New digital display
Better seat and stronger rear frame

It was still simple and rugged but finally felt a little more modern.

The good stuff:

No more carb issues
Smoother highway cruising
Stronger brakes (especially with ABS)

The not-so-good:

Heaviest KLR yet
Some early 2022 models had small bugs
Higher price tag than older KLRs

What Years Are the KLR 650 Generations?

Here’s an easy chart:

First Generation: 1987–2007
Second Generation: 2008–2018
Third Generation: 2022–Present

Knowing the generation helps a lot when you’re hunting for a KLR that fits your needs.

What Years to Avoid

Now that we know what the KLR 650 generations are all about, let’s focus on the years that might raise some red flags for potential buyers, especially the second generation.

It’s important to note that while the KLR 650 is generally a reliable bike, there are some years that are more problematic than others, especially due to specific manufacturing issues.

2008-2009: The Oil Consumption Problem

These years are widely known for having a specific issue: excessive oil consumption. Essentially, the engine would burn oil at a much faster rate than it should, which could lead to significant engine damage if not addressed.

Why did this happen?
It had to do with manufacturing tolerances in the pistons and cylinders, which weren’t quite up to spec. This led to oil leaking past the piston rings, burning off, and eventually making a mess of the engine. Some owners reported needing to top off the oil after every few hundred miles — definitely not ideal.

If you’re considering a 2008-2009 KLR 650, it’s essential to check:

Oil consumption history: Ask the seller how often they had to top up oil and check for signs of blue smoke coming out of the exhaust. A little oil burn is common, but excessive amounts are a huge warning sign.
Recall completion: Both 2008 and 2009 models had several recalls related to safety and oil consumption issues. Make sure the bike has had the necessary recalls done by checking the VIN on Kawasaki’s recall website.

While this issue can be fixed with the installation of a 685cc piston kit (a common upgrade), it’s not a cheap fix. That’s why the 2008 and early 2009 models are generally considered a big risk when buying used.

2010-2018: A Safer Bet, But Still Needs Some Attention

From 2010 onward, the KLR 650 saw improvements in both engine reliability and comfort. The oil consumption issue was largely addressed by this time, but there were still some things to keep an eye on.

What got better:

The oil consumption issue was pretty much resolved after 2009, so later second-gen bikes are far more reliable.
Suspension: The seat and suspension were updated in 2014.5, making the ride smoother, especially on rough roads or long trips.

What to check:

The Doohickey: This famous part is a lever inside the engine that can fail and cause significant engine damage. If the previous owner hasn’t replaced the stock Doohickey with the upgraded version, it’s something you’ll need to do sooner or later. You can usually find the updated part in aftermarket kits, and it’s a relatively inexpensive upgrade.

Which years are best?

2014.5 and newer: These models are generally considered the most well-rounded of the second-gen KLR 650s. They come with the upgraded seat and suspension, and the oil consumption issues are a thing of the past. If you find a well-maintained bike from these years, you’re in good shape.

2022-2023: The Return of the KLR with New Tech

In 2022, Kawasaki introduced the third-gen KLR 650 with major updates like fuel injection and an integrated frame design. The bike got a more modern feel, but there are still some early model quirks to keep in mind.

The good stuff:

Fuel injection: This is a game-changer for riders who struggled with the carbureted versions. No more fiddling with choke settings.
ABS option: Helps with braking stability, especially on slippery surfaces.
Upgraded frame: The new design makes the bike stronger and more capable of handling heavy loads or rough terrain.

What to be aware of:

Early 2022 issues: Some early 2022 bikes had small production issues related to the suspension and fuel system. These issues were quickly addressed, but if you’re buying a 2022 model, make sure it’s been checked over for any factory recalls or fixes.

Why consider the 2022 model?

If you’re looking for a more modern ride with smoother engine performance and better tech, this is your pick. However, with a higher price tag, it’s still important to check that the bike has been properly maintained, especially if buying second-hand.

So, Should You Avoid These Years?

If you’re considering a used KLR 650, here’s a quick recap:

2008-2009 (Gen 2): Avoid, due to significant oil consumption issues and multiple recalls. These bikes often need engine work, which can get expensive.
2010-2018 (Gen 2): Generally safe, especially models from 2014.5 onward. Just keep an eye on the Doohickey and check for any wear.
2022-Present (Gen 3): Good choice, but ensure that any early 2022 issues have been addressed. A bit more expensive, but more modern and reliable.

Now that you know what years to avoid and what to look for, you can shop more confidently, knowing what to inspect and what might need fixing. Don’t rush the process, and always ask for the bike’s history.

Also See: Kawasaki Liquid Cooled Engine Problems

What to Look for When Buying a Used KLR 650

Now that you know which years to avoid, it’s time to dive into what you should check for when buying a used KLR 650. Even if you steer clear of the more troublesome years, you’ll still want to thoroughly inspect the bike to ensure it’s in good shape.

1. The Engine: Check for Smoothness and Leaks

Start with the engine. The KLR 650 is known for being a durable, long-lasting engine, but it’s still important to ensure everything’s running smoothly.

Oil Consumption: If you’re looking at a 2008-2009 model, ask the seller if they’ve had any issues with oil consumption. Even if it’s not burning oil excessively, look for any signs of oil leaks around the engine and oil filter.
Compression Test: If possible, perform a compression test. Low compression can signal that the engine’s internals are worn and might need a rebuild sooner than later.
Engine Noise: Listen carefully for any odd rattling noises. A noisy engine could be an early sign of internal damage, especially if the bike hasn’t had the Doohickey upgraded.

2. Inspect the Suspension and Brakes

The KLR 650 has a reputation for handling well on rough terrain, but over time, the suspension can get worn out, especially on bikes with many miles. Here’s what to check:

Fork Seals: Look for signs of oil leaks around the fork seals. If you see any oil, the seals may need to be replaced, which is a fairly common repair on older bikes.
Suspension Play: Push down on the bike to test the suspension. If it feels bouncy or bottoming out too easily, the shock might need a rebuild.
Brakes: Check the brake pads and discs for wear. Since the KLR 650 is often used for off-roading, the brakes can wear out faster than on a street-only bike.

3. The Doohickey – Don’t Forget This Little Part!

As mentioned earlier, the Doohickey (a part of the KLR 650’s engine) can cause a lot of damage if it fails. If you’re buying a second-gen bike, especially a 2008-2009 model, ask if the Doohickey has been upgraded.

Doohickey Upgrade: This part is prone to failure if not replaced. It’s an inexpensive fix, but it’s crucial for the longevity of the engine.
Signs of Doohickey Failure: If the engine sounds excessively noisy or there’s an abnormal rattling sound, the Doohickey might be the culprit. You can get a new, upgraded version from aftermarket suppliers.

4. Mileage: High Mileage Isn’t Always a Deal-Breaker

KLR 650s are built for long-distance travel and off-road adventures, so don’t automatically shy away from bikes with high mileage. What matters more is how the bike has been maintained.

Regular Maintenance: Check if the bike has had regular oil changes and other maintenance. A bike with 40,000-50,000 miles that’s been properly maintained could still be a great choice.
Big Repairs: Ask the seller if the bike has ever had major repairs. If the bike’s engine or transmission has been rebuilt, that could be a good sign that it’s been well-cared-for. However, if it’s had no work done and it’s nearing high mileage, that’s a red flag.

5. Tires and Chain

The tires and chain are the parts that take the most wear on a KLR 650, especially if the bike has been used for off-roading.

Tires: Check the tires for wear and damage. If they’re worn down or uneven, that could mean the bike was ridden hard and might have some suspension issues as well.
Chain and Sprockets: Inspect the chain and sprockets. A worn-out chain could be a sign of neglect, and replacing the chain and sprockets isn’t cheap. Make sure the chain is tight but not overly so.

6. Frame and Bodywork

The frame of the KLR 650 is solid, but you should still check it for any signs of cracks, dents, or heavy rust. Off-road riding can sometimes result in frame damage if the bike’s been dropped a lot.

Frame Condition: Look for any visible cracks, especially around the headstock, the rear subframe, and the swingarm.
Bodywork: The KLR 650’s bodywork is relatively simple, but it can take a beating in rough terrain. Check for broken plastics or any signs of deep scratches that might indicate the bike was ridden hard.

7. Test Ride: Always Take It for a Spin

Finally, the most important part of the buying process: the test ride. It might seem obvious, but you’d be surprised how many buyers skip this step.

Handling: Pay attention to how the bike handles. Does it feel solid on the road? Is the steering responsive?
Smooth Gear Shifting: Test all gears and make sure the bike shifts smoothly. Hard shifting or slipping gears could indicate a bigger issue with the transmission.
Comfort: If you plan to use the KLR 650 for long trips, test the comfort of the seat and handlebars. The bike’s ergonomics might feel a bit off if it’s been modified or hasn’t been adjusted to suit the rider.

8. Price and Negotiation

Once you’ve checked over everything, it’s time to think about the price. Here are a few tips for negotiating:

Research the Market: Check the going prices for KLR 650s in your area. Prices can vary depending on mileage, year, and condition.
Use Issues as Leverage: If you’ve found any issues with the bike, like worn tires, a stock Doohickey, or suspension wear, use that as leverage to bring the price down.

FAQS

1. What years of the KLR 650 should I avoid?

Avoid the 2008-2009 KLR 650 models due to issues with oil consumption. These years have been reported to burn oil excessively, leading to engine damage over time.

2. Why is everyone selling their KLR 650?

Many riders are selling their KLR 650s due to common issues like oil consumption (especially in 2008-2009 models), or because they’ve upgraded to newer, more powerful adventure bikes.

3. What is the lifespan of a KLR 650?

The KLR 650 can last 50,000 miles or more with proper maintenance. Regular care and upgrades, like the Doohickey mod, can extend its lifespan even further.

4. Is the KLR 650 good for highway riding?

Yes, the KLR 650 is good for highway riding. Its 650cc engine provides solid performance on highways, though it might not be as smooth or fast as a full street bike.

5. Which KLR 650 models are part of the second generation?

The second-generation KLR 650 models started in 2008 and continued until the 2022 model. These bikes feature improved features like better bodywork, upgraded suspension, and more.

6. How can I tell if the KLR 650 Doohickey has been upgraded?

Ask the seller if the Doohickey has been replaced with an upgraded version. If you can’t verify it, listen for rattling noises, which could indicate the part needs replacement.

7. What are the most common issues with the KLR 650?

Common KLR 650 issues include oil consumption (in older models), suspension wear, and the failure of the Doohickey part. Regular maintenance can help prevent many of these problems.

8. Can a KLR 650 be used for off-roading?

Absolutely! The KLR 650 is designed for off-roading with its rugged suspension and durable frame. It handles dirt trails, gravel roads, and light trails well.

9. How much should I pay for a used KLR 650?

A used KLR 650 typically ranges from $2,500 to $4,500 depending on the year, condition, and mileage. Prices can vary based on location and market demand.

10. Should I avoid buying a KLR 650 with high mileage?

Not necessarily. A high-mileage KLR 650 that’s been well-maintained can still be a solid buy. Just ensure it has a good service history and check for any major repairs needed.

11. How can I check if the suspension is worn on a KLR 650?

Test the suspension by pushing down on the bike. If it feels bouncy or bottoms out too easily, the suspension likely needs attention, especially on older models.

12. What upgrades are recommended for the KLR 650?

Recommended upgrades include replacing the Doohickey, upgrading suspension components, installing a better seat for comfort, and adding crash bars for off-road protection.

13. How do I know if a KLR 650’s engine is in good shape?

Listen for smooth engine sounds, check for oil leaks, and perform a compression test. A well-maintained engine should run smoothly without excessive noise or oil consumption.

14. Are KLR 650 parts easy to find?

Yes, KLR 650 parts are widely available through both official and aftermarket sources. Many parts, including the Doohickey, suspension, and body parts, are easy to find.

15. What is the best year for the KLR 650?

The 2010 and newer KLR 650 models are considered the best since they address many of the issues from earlier years, including the Doohickey upgrade and better overall reliability.

Conclusion: Finding Your Perfect KLR 650

The KLR 650 is a legendary bike known for its versatility, durability, and ability to tackle a variety of terrains. While there are some years to avoid, especially the 2008-2009 models due to oil consumption issues, the second-gen KLR 650s from 2010 onwards are generally safe choices, especially those with the 685cc upgrade.

If you’re buying a used KLR 650, pay close attention to key factors like engine health, the Doohickey upgrade, suspension, and overall maintenance. A well-maintained KLR 650 with a solid history can provide years of reliable service, whether you’re cruising highways or tackling off-road adventures.

Good luck, and happy riding!